Johnson's Garden Centers Text File document - copyright 2007 
PDF file available at http://www.johnsonsgarden.com/advice.html#nursery

Growing & Maintaining Plants Trained in the Art of Bonsai 

    BONSAI (pronounced "bone-sigh") is an ancient Oriental art form
developed in China over 1,000 years ago, later adopted by the Japanese
in the 11th or 12th century. It became a precise art form by the 1500s
with well-defined standards. By the end of the 19th century, specimens
began to trickle into the West, but this method of cultivating did not
become popular in America and Europe until after World War II.

    "Bon" is "a tray" and "sai" is "to grow." Therefore, the word bonsai
means "planting in a shallow container" and this underlines the
importance of the pot. As a rule of thumb, the volume of the container
should be about one third of the total volume of the trunk and top
growth. Its width should be greater than its height and it must be
sound. There should be no cracks and the container should be frost free.
The color should be subdued and the inside should be unglazed. At the
bottom, there must be at least one drainage hole.

    First, put plastic mesh over the drainage hole and anchor it down
with a thin layer of gravel; then, add a soil-based compost or a good
potting soil. Cover the surface around the plant with moss or small
stones.

    Now for the plants themselves. A vast number of trees and shrubs can
be grown, but types with large leaves are rarely suitable. Well-known
bonsai trees and shrubs are listed below, but you can try others. The
most expensive method is to buy a ready-grown bonsai, the cheapest is to
dig up a seedling from the garden. Suitable bonsai-type plants include:

 
EVERGREEN FOLIAGE:
Abies (Fir)
Cedrus (Cedar)
Juniperus (Juniper)
Picea (Pine)
Taxus (Yew) 
Thuja (Arborvitae)
Pinus (Pine)

DECIDUOUS FOLIAGE:
Acer (Maple)
Betula (Birch)
Quercus (Oak)  
Salix (Willow)
Zelkova (Grey, Bark Elm)    
Ginkgo (Maidenhair Tree) 
Taxodium (Bald Cypress) 
Ulmus ('Jacqueline Hillier' Elm) 
                                                      
FLOWERS OR FRUIT: 
Azalea (Azalea) 
Berberis (Barberry) 
Malus (Crabapple) 
Pyracantha (Firethorn) 
Wisteria (Wisteria) 
Crataegus (Hawthorn) 
Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster) 

    Pot, soil, plant ... now you have to look after it. Its home should
be outdoors and if you have a collection they should be sited so that
you can see them from a window. A low slatted table is best, with some
protection from high winds and heavy rain. Daily watering is necessary
in summer but in the winter once or twice a week is sufficient. Use
rainwater whenever possible and include a little liquid fertilizer in
spring and summer using about 1/4 the recommended amount. Misting the
foliage on hot summer days prevents dehydration. A cold frame gives
winter protection.

    Root and stem pruning are the arts you must learn. In March, take
the plant out of its pot and see if its roots have started to encircle
the soil ball. If so, cut them back by about 1/3 and remove some of the
old soil. For conifers this root pruning should be less drastic. Put the
plant back in its pot with some fresh compost or soil and protect from
strong winds until it is well-established. Keep well watered and do not
feed until new growth appears. Now carefully prune the shoots ...
removing the tip will stimulate branching and removing lower side shoots
will create the trunk. Copper wire can be used to shape the trunk, but
you must remove this wire when it starts to cut into the stem. Branches
can be made to weep by hanging weights on them.

    Bonsai can have a visiting spell indoors for up to four days. Place
the pot in a well-lit area and mist the leaves with water every day. The
art of bonsai is rather like keeping a dog ... it will have to be cared
for every day and you will have to keep watch on its progress. But the
rewards are GREAT for the avid gardener who enjoys a challenging hobby
and who has a deep love for plants.

... The Horticultural Art Form 
    What makes a "tree in a pot" a bonsai? In order for a potted tree to
qualify as a bonsai, it must contain the following features:

      -- health, vigor and structure as would be found in a plant of
         like species growing in optimum                               
         conditions

      -- an air of dignity and the mature appearance that comes to 
         trees as their trunk grows thick and their bark weathers. 

      -- a well developed and balanced limb structure 

      -- a certain sense of balance and harmony between the trees and 
         its container 

      -- the overall picture should mirror its full-size counterpart 
         in nature 

    Bonsai is not limited to a particular size. Small sizes can vary
from a few inches in height up to fifteen inches. The medium or standard
size is usually fifteen to thirty inches high, and the larger ones up to
six feet.

    One of the most common problems that arises in bonsai keeping is the
constant need of maintenance due to the small amount of soil available
in their often small and shallow pot. A healthy bonsai in spring can
easily consume the moisture in its pot in a single day. Fertilizer and
nutrients need to be supplied bi-weekly throughout the growing season.
If you successfully grow and feed a bonsai, it will become root bound in
one or two seasons and thus need repotting. Soil mixtures and drainage
capabilities figure in with maintenance.

    Trimming new growth is an on-going process. Feeding, root pruning
and repotting are done on an as-needed basis in order to maintain the
plant's size and shape. Wiring, tieing an arranging limbs must be worked
in as well. A good bonsai can be created in an afternoon. An extra fine
bonsai usually takes years to develop.